Russian Winemakers Aim High Amid Sanctions but Taste Tests Show Challenges
Nikolaev & Sons in the Krasnodar region near the Black Sea produces sparkling wine from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir using the traditional lees method and aims to double production from 60,000 to 120,000 bottles per year by 2032.
Sanctions following Russia's invasion of Ukraine have reduced Western export markets but boosted domestic demand for Russian wines, which now account for about two-thirds of the Russian market, up from roughly a quarter a decade ago.
The Kremlin has promoted a patriotic push to support local wines, resulting in Russian wines dominating supermarket shelves. However, international recognition for Russian sparkling wines remains limited, and Western access is constrained by sanctions, meaning market growth is largely domestic for the time being.
A blind tasting in Moscow comparing Russian and German Rieslings showed the German wine was preferred by all three tasters, suggesting Western wines outperform Russian ones in this test.
Industry perspectives vary. Some experts find mass-market Russian wines comparable to Western counterparts, while others believe Russian wines could become collectible in about two decades.
Winemakers highlight climatic potential that could place Russia among the top regions for sparkling wine production, with no apparent cap on growth in the near future.
Report dated 3 January 2026 by Ivor Bennett, Moscow correspondent.
